26th April 2010
To access this track, you'll need to park opposite in the parking area that was almost vacant when we arrived around 9am, but packed so full by the time we returned that the adjacent temporary bays were also lined with vehicles far smaller than what I can only assume the areas are intended for. Unfortunately for us, we assumed there was parking on the same side of the road as the track start (luckily there's an excellent picnic ground a km or two further west that's easy to turn around from). If you're as reckless as my companion and I am then you'll find yourself convenienced by servos in the nearby town Aratula on the Brisbane side of the gap - otherwise you can hunt down fuel further west, towards Warwick.
Contrasting with the northern side of the eponymous highway running through Cunningham's Gap, the 10.2km walk straddling the towering peak immediately south at Mount Mitchell runs mostly through open forest. The very start of the hike far more closely replicates the dense rainforest feel hiking Mount Cordeaux allows you to appreciate, though after around 1km the luscious ferny undergrowth breaks away into open eucalypt. Grasstrees feature prominently from here to the peak, permitting reasonably uninterrupted views for the majority of the walk as it winds around the western side and back eastwards, climbing toward the saddle between the two peaks.
The taller, eastern peak is reached by the ascending path with spectacular views of Mount Cordeaux. These excellent photo opportunities are sacrificed at the culmination of the track at the top (following a few short lengths of the only stair climbs required on the mountain), where the apex obscures that particular direction. But this is forgiven immediately when an amazing panoramic portrait of the western scenic rim materialises above the rocky outcrop atop a sheer cliff face. The view from here is breath taking and is well worth the easy grade walk, but can be pretty windy. A somewhat overgrown path leads away from the unshaded ledge to the apex which is unfortunately populated with vegetation that hinders a 360 degree view.
At a reasonably slow pace, it took us 1 hour and 15 minutes from car park to summit, and a little less to return. Though graded at a 3.5 hour return trip, I would suggest 2.5-3 hours is a more realistic estimate for most regular bushwalkers, including a half hour break at the top. During the descent, we happened across a brown snake slithering its way across the path to the grassy bushes flanking the track. Otherwise, no other significant (or at least interesting) wildlife was spotted.
For those interested in making the most of a full-day trip to Cunningham's Gap, I would recommend coupling this walk with the adjacent Mount Cordeaux to the north. We only had time to pursue the smaller, 1.2km return Rainforest Circuit track. This initiates and joins several longer walks to the parking lot and includes the Fassifern Valley Lookout on the eastern side, offering great views attained from an easy 400m walk for those not capable of (or willing to) achieve summit views from the peaks above.
Munch and Natty - the Kings of Mount Mitchell
Of course it's better when your friend remembers to bring a memory card for his camera, but you live with what you can.
3rd May 2010
Having lavished the wonders of Springbrook's shorter walks over the past two decades, we finally decided to embark on the monster Warrie Circuit, an extension of the much-loved Canyon Circuit. Since this 4km return circuit is a family favourite, and having read several highly positive reviews of the longer walk, I previously had high expectations. These were not disappointed - in fact, the walk was even more spectacular than I had imagined.
Tipped as a 17km track with an
expected travelling time of 5-6 hours, we assumed it would
be relatively flat and easy going. And while the walk was
in no way difficult, some sections were reasonably steep.
Signs marking the entrance to the walk at the Canyon
Lookout suggest a counter-clockwise travelling direction,
though we opted to start at the left instead. Most of the
signs appear to be tailored towards those hiking
counter-clockwise (offering distances remaining to the end
of the circuit in that direction) this was the only (very
minor) problem we found by walking in the other direction.
Anyone attempting this hike shouldn't have any troubles
travelling either way (alternatively, the Tallanbana picnic
area provides another access point to the track slightly to
the south of here).
Heading directly north from the breathtaking Canyon Lookout the path encounters two more excellent view points, including one atop of Blackfellow Falls. All these lookouts offer great views over the Eastern extent of the park, across to the ocean and Gold Coast. Shortly after, the path takes a full turn as it descends to the bottom of Blackfellow Falls - the first of three waterfalls permitting you to walk behind them on the Warrie Circuit. While you can mostly remain dry by skirting about the falling water, you can expect to get at least a little wet (and that's half the fun). We spotted the native blue spiny crayfish scratching its way along the path - unfortunately the little critter wouldn't keep still and we couldn't get a good photo of it.
At this point the Warrie Circuit branches from the shorter Twin Falls Circuit and descends into the valley below. This part of the walk was surprisingly steep in parts, and I'd imagine coming back up this way would be tiresome. Two very pretty waterfalls present themselves during this stretch of the hike - Poondahra Falls and Poonyahra Falls, where no more than 1km of track separates them. Both are lower extensions of the Little Nerang Creek Eastern Branch, following down from Balckfellow Falls. Despite originating from the same source, all three provide unique and contrasting falls. Rock hopping for a short distance off-track will afford you some excellent photo opportunities.
The area directly below and surrounding the first, Poondahra, is mostly overgrown showcasing a wide and vivacious waterfall. There are a contrastingly small number of trees in the open expanse that greets you at the base of Poonyahra Falls. This second one is most impressive (in my opinion), cascading down rocky slabs near the peak resulting in various mini-falls before dropping the sheer face in the middle. A further, smaller cascade complements the spectacle at the bottom.
Adding to our wildlife hit list we encountered a carpet python lazing around in the sun on the track. It was laying still and seemed so disinterested in our appearance that I almost stood on it without noticing.
Forewarned that the walk contains more than a dozen creek crosses, we found this section trampled over several dry, rocky patches that appear to be the remains of creeks that may exist only temporarily in periods of higher rainfall. This lead us to assume (somewhat disappointedly) that they comprised the majority of these 'crossings.' It wasn't until we passed by the small Gooroolba Falls that we finally hit a proper creek crossing. From there we found the crosses occurred frequently for the next hour or so of the walk, around the low subtropical section of the circuit. Though there had only been small amounts of rain recently, several of the passages were slippery and required some caution to traverse.
Perhaps the prettiest region
of the walk occurs at the 'Meeting of the waters,' where
Little Nerang Creek meets Mundora Creek forming a wider
pool of water, before trickling northwards towards the
Purling Brook Falls section of Springbrook. Slowly moving
water and an abundance of shore pebbles and rocks allows
for excellent rock hopping opportunities (we decided not to
this time, though we observed others enjoying such an
adventure). Be warned, however: the rocks leading from the
path to this intersection can be extremely slippery,
necessitating a sturdy balance and, at times, all four
limbs.
The journey this far took roughly 1.5
hours, and it was another hour before we hit the most
impressive display of the entire circuit - the base of the
monstrous Ngarri-dhum falls. Towering hundreds of feet into
the air above a rocky crossing and continuing down from
here through thick vegetation rich with palms and ferns,
typical of this section. At a rough halfway mark, this is
an ideal spot for lunch or snacks, particularly with the
spectacular views and suitable shade in at least some parts
provided by the curvature of the gorge. We were somewhat
surprised to notice how busy the track was - we passed a
number of hikers heading the other direction, even
including one couple running the circuit. Even though the
Warrie Circuit was apparently closed for a couple of years
and only reopened early this year, the entirety of the path
was well-walked.
Subsequently you head directly up around north-east and back to the top of the falls, requiring the steepest climb of the walk. Unfortunately it doesn't visit close to the edge of Ngarri-dhum Falls as the park map may lead you to believe, but this is quickly dissipated when the path crosses a small but very pleasing unnamed waterfall. The only real disappointment of the circuit involved the offshoot track to The Pinnacle, a peak observed from the Canyon Lookout (and many of those nearby). Purportedly a 3km return to the main circuit, we suffered failure at locating the short track. We also asked a couple of the groups taking the counter-clockwise route whether they'd scaled the Pinnacle but neither had seen any offshoot. Evidently the path has been closed since the track was reopened, hopefully it may be available again in the future.
Again, parts of the National Park Map seemed a little misleading to us - the final trek back to the car park felt far shorter than the distance shown. Goomoolahra Falls offers a pretty waterfall broken into two by an unseen flatter middle section, the top of which is accessible from Goomoolahra picnic area according to the map. Excellent views of the extended Springbrook mountain cliffs and the elusive Pinnacle are also observed here.
The final waterfall technically associated with the
Warrie Circuit allows you to scurry in behind the spray, as
with Blackfellow Falls, the pleasant Rainbow Falls. It's
amazing how waterfalls never get old regardless of the
number you see. Not long from here the track diverges up to
the Canyon Lookout from the shorter Twin Falls Circuit -
but don't miss out on them by heading back yet! This
section is far more populated with people (especially
tourists and young kids) but little of the grandeur of the
mighty Twin Falls is lost. It is possible to swim here, but
last time I tried swimming in Summer even around midday it
was bitterly cold. The glory of watching the falls alone is
enough to top off the marvellous Warrie Circuit.
Before heading back to the car park, make sure to try out all the little intersecting pathways around here. We discovered an unsigned (but still well worn) diversion that follows the creek down from the large pool at the Twin Falls, providing pretty little views of smaller cascades. Well worth checking out. A final ascent up alternating series of ramps and stairs leads to a concrete slab over the peak of Twin Falls, before taking you back to the parking lot.
The 17km (plus at least another km of wandering around the final section) took us just under 5 hours to complete, including at least an hour for breaks and photos. This is one of the most spectacular and beautiful walks in south east Queensland and a new personal favourite.
